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What are the cooler months like, and how do we make the most of them?

Winters are mild outside but homes can feel cold indoors, and few have central heating. The season brings Atlantic storms, snow in the Serra da Estrela, the giant waves at Nazaré and some of Portugal’s best-loved festivals.

Last checked 9 Oct 2026·Information, not advice

In 30 seconds

  • Portugal is one of the EU countries where most people say they can’t keep their home warm: 14.5% in 2024, against an EU average of 9.2%. Ask how a home is heated before you rent
  • Storms Kristin, Leonardo and Marta in January and February 2026 killed at least 18 people and caused widespread damage. Take IPMA’s orange and red wind, rain and sea warnings seriously
  • Mainland Portugal’s only ski area, in the Serra da Estrela, usually opens around Christmas. November brings São Martinho chestnuts, and Carnival Tuesday falls on 9 February 2027
Can’t keep home warm14.5%Portugal 2024, EU 9.2% (Eurostat)
Storms Jan–Feb 202618+ deadKristin, Leonardo and Marta
Serra da Estrela26 Dec–29 MarPlanned ski season
Carnival Tuesday9 Feb 2027Optional holiday, not compulsory

Cold, damp houses

People from the UK are often surprised by how cold Portuguese homes can be in winter. In Eurostat figures released in February 2026, 14.5% of people in Portugal said they couldn’t keep their home adequately warm in 2024, the fourth highest in the EU, against an EU average of 9.2%. That was down from 20.8% in 2023. In the 2021 census, central heating was the main type of heating in only about 14% of homes, and most homes had no air conditioning.

  • When you view a home, ask how each room is heated, whether there’s double glazing, and how much the bills were last winter
  • Look for signs of damp and mould: black marks in corners, a musty smell, peeling paint
  • A dehumidifier, rugs, thick curtains and draught strips help in a rental. For your rights if a rental is cold or damp, see renting a home
  • Budget for heating in your cost of living figures

Storms and IPMA warnings

Storm Kristin hit the mainland in the early hours of 28 January 2026 with winds around 200 km/h. Leiria district was worst hit, along with Coimbra, Santarém and Lisbon. Storms Leonardo and Marta followed, bringing floods along rivers and evacuations. By late February the count was at least 18 dead, with many homes destroyed, and the Government had mobilised €3.5 billion in support. Some people still had unstable power or phone lines a month later.

  • IPMA warnings use the same colours as for heat: see summer. They cover wind, rain, snow, cold and rough seas
  • In orange or red wind warnings, stay indoors, keep away from trees and the seafront, and secure anything loose on balconies
  • Have torches, a power bank and some water at home in case the power goes off
  • Don’t climb onto a roof to repair storm damage yourself: get a professional

Snow in the Serra da Estrela

The Serra da Estrela, in central Portugal, has the mainland’s only ski area, with 20 runs and 4 lifts. The planned season for 2026–27 runs from 26 December to 29 March, depending on snow. Heavy snow regularly closes the roads to the summit (Torre), so check road conditions and IPMA snow warnings before you drive up, and carry chains if told to.

Surf season and the Nazaré waves

Autumn and winter swells bring the biggest waves. At Praia do Norte in Nazaré, the World Surf League’s big-wave competition has a waiting period through the winter (to 31 March in the 2025/26 season). It’s called only when the forecast shows waves over 8 metres, with a yellow alert up to 72 hours ahead and a green alert 24 hours before. The 2025/26 event was called for 13 December 2025. You can watch from the lighthouse area and the beach, but keep well back from the water.

Autumn and winter festivals

WhenWhat
1 NovemberAll Saints’ Day, a national holiday
11 NovemberSão Martinho: roast chestnuts (magusto) with água-pé, jeropiga and new wine, often in mild weather (the “summer of São Martinho”)
1 and 8 DecemberRestoration of Independence and the Immaculate Conception, both national holidays
25–26 DecemberChristmas Day is a national holiday; Madeira also has 26 December (Primeira Oitava) as a regional holiday
FebruaryCarnival: Tuesday 9 February 2027 is an optional holiday, given only if your contract or collective agreement says so. In 2026, storms forced Torres Vedras and other towns to cancel or postpone their parades

For holiday dates and school breaks, see public holidays and school holidays. For trips, see weekends away.

What to do next

  1. Ask about heating, glazing and damp before you rent, and budget for winter bills
  2. Follow IPMA warnings and keep torches and a power bank at home
  3. Book Serra da Estrela and Carnival trips early, and check snow and road conditions before you go

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