What are the cooler months like, and how do we make the most of them?
Winters are mild outside but homes can feel cold indoors, and few have central heating. The season brings Atlantic storms, snow in the Serra da Estrela, the giant waves at Nazaré and some of Portugal’s best-loved festivals.
In 30 seconds
- Portugal is one of the EU countries where most people say they can’t keep their home warm: 14.5% in 2024, against an EU average of 9.2%. Ask how a home is heated before you rent
- Storms Kristin, Leonardo and Marta in January and February 2026 killed at least 18 people and caused widespread damage. Take IPMA’s orange and red wind, rain and sea warnings seriously
- Mainland Portugal’s only ski area, in the Serra da Estrela, usually opens around Christmas. November brings São Martinho chestnuts, and Carnival Tuesday falls on 9 February 2027
Cold, damp houses
People from the UK are often surprised by how cold Portuguese homes can be in winter. In Eurostat figures released in February 2026, 14.5% of people in Portugal said they couldn’t keep their home adequately warm in 2024, the fourth highest in the EU, against an EU average of 9.2%. That was down from 20.8% in 2023. In the 2021 census, central heating was the main type of heating in only about 14% of homes, and most homes had no air conditioning.
- When you view a home, ask how each room is heated, whether there’s double glazing, and how much the bills were last winter
- Look for signs of damp and mould: black marks in corners, a musty smell, peeling paint
- A dehumidifier, rugs, thick curtains and draught strips help in a rental. For your rights if a rental is cold or damp, see renting a home
- Budget for heating in your cost of living figures
Storms and IPMA warnings
Storm Kristin hit the mainland in the early hours of 28 January 2026 with winds around 200 km/h. Leiria district was worst hit, along with Coimbra, Santarém and Lisbon. Storms Leonardo and Marta followed, bringing floods along rivers and evacuations. By late February the count was at least 18 dead, with many homes destroyed, and the Government had mobilised €3.5 billion in support. Some people still had unstable power or phone lines a month later.
- IPMA warnings use the same colours as for heat: see summer. They cover wind, rain, snow, cold and rough seas
- In orange or red wind warnings, stay indoors, keep away from trees and the seafront, and secure anything loose on balconies
- Have torches, a power bank and some water at home in case the power goes off
- Don’t climb onto a roof to repair storm damage yourself: get a professional
Snow in the Serra da Estrela
The Serra da Estrela, in central Portugal, has the mainland’s only ski area, with 20 runs and 4 lifts. The planned season for 2026–27 runs from 26 December to 29 March, depending on snow. Heavy snow regularly closes the roads to the summit (Torre), so check road conditions and IPMA snow warnings before you drive up, and carry chains if told to.
Surf season and the Nazaré waves
Autumn and winter swells bring the biggest waves. At Praia do Norte in Nazaré, the World Surf League’s big-wave competition has a waiting period through the winter (to 31 March in the 2025/26 season). It’s called only when the forecast shows waves over 8 metres, with a yellow alert up to 72 hours ahead and a green alert 24 hours before. The 2025/26 event was called for 13 December 2025. You can watch from the lighthouse area and the beach, but keep well back from the water.
Autumn and winter festivals
| When | What |
|---|---|
| 1 November | All Saints’ Day, a national holiday |
| 11 November | São Martinho: roast chestnuts (magusto) with água-pé, jeropiga and new wine, often in mild weather (the “summer of São Martinho”) |
| 1 and 8 December | Restoration of Independence and the Immaculate Conception, both national holidays |
| 25–26 December | Christmas Day is a national holiday; Madeira also has 26 December (Primeira Oitava) as a regional holiday |
| February | Carnival: Tuesday 9 February 2027 is an optional holiday, given only if your contract or collective agreement says so. In 2026, storms forced Torres Vedras and other towns to cancel or postpone their parades |
For holiday dates and school breaks, see public holidays and school holidays. For trips, see weekends away.
What to do next
- Ask about heating, glazing and damp before you rent, and budget for winter bills
- Follow IPMA warnings and keep torches and a power bank at home
- Book Serra da Estrela and Carnival trips early, and check snow and road conditions before you go
Keep going
- Lusa: almost 15% of people in Portugal can’t heat their homes properly, Eurostat (Feb 2026)
- idealista: how Portuguese homes are equipped, 2021 census (INE)
- Postal: storms Kristin, Leonardo and Marta caused 18 deaths (Feb 2026)
- Renascença explainer: what explains the impact of storm Kristin (28 Jan 2026)
- IPMA (Portuguese Institute for Sea and Atmosphere): weather warnings, user’s guide
- Skiinfo: Serra da Estrela resort, planned opening and closing dates
- Renascença (Lusa): snow closes roads in Serra da Estrela (Nov 2024)
- Nazaré Big Waves: launch of the Nazaré Big Wave Challenge 2025/26
- Nazaré Big Waves: competition confirmed with a green alert (12 Dec 2025)
- Lisboa Secreta: São Martinho, magusto, chestnuts and água-pé
- RFM: bad weather cancels and postpones Carnival in several municipalities (Feb 2026)
- Labour Code, Article 234: compulsory public holidays (PGDL)
- Labour Code, Article 235: optional holidays, Carnival and the municipal holiday (PGDL)
- DNOTICIAS.PT: Madeira’s regional and municipal holidays (Nov 2024)
- Executive Digest: holidays and long weekends in 2027
